Nowhere in the world embodies the spirit of Found more than Les Marchés aux Puces de Saint-Ouen. It seems à propos that this should be our very first post. The very idea of Found was born after a visit to this vast collection of amazing markets with row upon row of “vendeurs” selling everything you could imagine. From well curated collections of incredible Louis the XIV antiques to fabulous reproductions of vintage movie posters, eclectic tea sets to marble mantelpieces, rattan lounge chairs to vintage doorknobs. Its all here, you just have to know where to look.


The collection of markets is located just across the Peripherique ring road of Paris, above the northern border of the 18th arrondissement in the neighbourhood of Saint-Ouen. Les Marchés aux Puces de Saint-Ouen is a collection of several markets each housing a vast collection of dealers and sellers. Marché Paul Bert Serpette is the largest and arguably the most well curated of the bunch. A place to go for everything from classic Louis Vuitton trunks, impeccable vintage furniture and gorgeous ceramics. The Paul Bert section is outdoors and is a labyrinth of incredible style and curation. Inside the Serpette there is one storefront after another, furniture spilling into the aisle ways to make room in the tiny shops for easier perusal. Shopkeepers keep themselves busy, visiting with their neighbouring colleagues over lunches delivered by the local cafés and bottles of wine. Each time I worried we were breaking up a party to ask a question. Of course no one seemed to mind as they seamlessly flowed from lunch chatter to business talk.



There are a few stops within the Marché Paul Bert that you must try and catch. La Galerie Vauclair (allée 6, stand 79) always has an impeccable offering of rattan and ceramics. Like a trip to the Côte d’Azur, Laurence and Denis Vauclair have built a formidable reputation and have curated some amazing finds. In addition to their stand in the Paul Bert, they also have a lovely shop in the 7th arrondissement at 24 rue de Beaune.



Just a few steps away from Vauclair is Marc Maison. Their small stand in the Paul Bert (they have a much larger standalone shop on the the Rue des Rosiers) is filled with 2 massive marble mantles and a stunning garden fountain. Crammed into the tiny space, these majestic pieces seem to have been ripped straight out of Versailles. Truly the place to pick-up such incredible things as you refurbish your chateau. For us, it was just a treat to get a close up peak at these architectural pieces of art.

I have had luck with fantastic ceramics at Les Merveilles de Babellou on allée 1, stands 12 and 77. The two stands are just across from one another; one features a fabulous collection of vintage clothing and jewelry, the other ceramics and rattan.


Finally, Les Tables d’Eva (allée 4, stand 2) is found just at the entrance of the Serpette by the parking garage. Eva has collected an impressive amount of ceramics and dinnerware. Her shop spans over a couple of stands, so there is plenty to peruse.


Just beyond the back entrance of the Paul Bert is a lovely mural filled park leading to the Marché Jules Vallèes. A smaller market with just two aisles, it was much easier to navigate. However, collections here were more higgledy-piggeldy. Old frames stacked against walls, boxes filled with trinkets and snuffboxes, baskets filled with old magazines and every now and again a collection of charming apothecary jars or a pile of green earthenware cruche orjol pitchers. This is a market where the thrill of the hunt is definitely more the order of the day.






Back out on the main street Rue des Rosiers, you can wander back towards the Peripherique and pass by several more markets. On this trip we were only able to pack in one more stop at the Marché Biron. (We were there during the riots in late June and the markets all closed abruptly mid-afternoon as there were concerns about security). The Marché Biron is a collection of dealers offering prestigious, traditional antiques. The Biron is really like visiting a museum and worth a stop.


My hope was to make the Marché Vernaison our last stop of the day. Like the Jules Vallèes, the Vernaison is another fabulous hunting ground with stalls specializing in every manner of bric-a-brac; doorknobs, number plates, silverware, photographs etc etc. Amazing treasures around every corner. On this trip I was on the hunt for a brass ashtray in the shape of a cicada. A friend had sent me on the mission and I knew if it was anywhere, it was likely in the Vernaison. We will have to save that hunt for the next trip.
A visit to the Marché aux Puces is a grand day out. Like any grand day out, you need to be fortified by a great lunch. There are two fantastic spots in the Marché Paul Bert and I loved them both. This time we had lunch at HaSalon, an Israeli restaurant serving delicious vegetable dishes and grilled meats along with the “world’s best hummus”. The highlight of our meal was the tomato carpaccio. It was almost too pretty to eat. Simple heirloom tomatoes, sliced thinly with jalapenos and olive oil.


The other great spot in the Marché Paul Bert is Le Paul Bert Café. A lovely bistro cafe, serving typical French fare. When we were here last it was quite chilly and we found the cafe a warm and cozy respite as we enjoyed a nice glass of red wine and “soupe à l’oignon” to fortify us for the rest of our day.
While we have not visited ourselves it is on the list for next time, La Chope des Puces is a jazz club on the Rue des Rosiers between the Marchés Paul Bert and Brion. It is a temple to the beginnings of Manouche or Gypsy Jazz and was a favourite hang out of the legendary Django Reinhart. If you love great guitar jazz, then this is a great pit spot stop for you during your day exploring the Marchés aux Puces.
The Marchés aux Puces de Saint-Ouen should absolutely be included in your itinerary on your next trip to Paris. There are amazing deals to be found on especially unique and special treasures. Be sure to always discuss pricing with the shopkeeper as prices are reduced for those sending items abroad. Some items can be packed to carry with you on the airplane home, other items can be shipped. Luckily, there is Hedley’s, a fine antiques and art shipping broker located just at the entrance to the Paul Bert. Otherwise there are many DHL locations around Paris that can help you pack and ship items home.
One crucial thing to keep in mind, don’t be intimidated by the Marchés aux Puces. This place is not just for fine antiques collectors/ dealers or interior designers, anyone can buy from these sellers. If you are not buying, you can still enjoy the museum-like experience of these vast collections. Wandering through and visiting these treasures of years gone by is just as an enriching experience. Although you never know, you might stumble upon a fabulous souvenir from your trip to Paris. There is something for everyone and at every price point.
When planning your trip to the Marchés aux Puces you should make note of their opening hours as they are limited by North American standards. As of writing, the markets are generally open Fridays from 8am – 12pm, Saturdays and Sundays from 10am – 6pm and Mondays from 11am – 5pm. You can access the Marchés via Metro, bus and tram – check local schedules for details. It is also easily accessed via Uber and Taxi (TIP: download the G7 Taxi app to make quick taxi bookings). Check out the website for the Marchés aux Puces de Saint-Ouen for more details and to help plan your visit. In the meantime, here’s a small gallery of some of the fabulous things we Found at the Marchés on our last visit:












3 responses to “Les Marchés aux Puces de Saint-Ouen – Paris, France”
Fabulous Mary. So interesting and you offer so much information.
Fantastic! I have just felt as though I walked through there with you. Ah, the thrill of the hunt!!
Great piece Mary. I wish I was walking around with you looking for that brass cicada ashtray.